Column “Homemade”: Pear and Cucumber Tartare

For all the criticism of social media, one must also acknowledge the positive side: Instagram and other platforms have been a great success for many star chefs (and thus their followers). Because you can now comfortably bring a growing number of these chefs, who are often styled as culinary gods, into your own kitchen and discover there: They're only human, too. Especially since, after some rocky starts, something like a new sense of ease can be observed.
A few chefs had already proven themselves to be a real showman during the coronavirus pandemic; others, especially the older ones, had to rework their skills and receive coaching; still others have clearly become more at home with the camera over the years. The reward is greater approachability, accessibility, practicality, and usually more substance than elsewhere, which is a real advantage, especially for the still somewhat tight-lipped gourmet kitchen.
For example, the Instagram profiles of Austrian Paul Ivic (@paul_Ivic), who usually presents a rather reserved appearance in his vegetarian Viennese Michelin-starred restaurant "Tian" and at the usual cooking events, have long been a source of enjoyment. He likes to present unusual vegetable combinations in front of the camera using feasible recipes. And he does so with such a charming nonchalance that the quantities sometimes become a matter of feeling, which may well be the intention (the goal is to reduce anxiety in the kitchen. The message: Don't take everything so seriously!).
Take, for example, his simply brilliant pairing of cucumber and pear. Ivic combines both finely diced fruits into a tartare dish and arranges the whole thing on a wafer-thinly sliced tomato. This trio is perfect for late summer and early autumn, as fantastic tomatoes are still available, and the pears are tasting better by the day. It's also a dish that can easily extend the summer, as the pear and cucumber, so closely connected, are aromatically reminiscent of good honeydew melon—freshness, sweetness, and floral notes included.
Salt-roasted and ground sesame seeds are an ideal vegetable toppingFor the pear and cucumber tartar (appetizer for 2 people), peel about a third of a cucumber, scrape out the seeds, and dice as finely as possible. Peel a ripe pear (the cucumber to pear ratio should be about 1:1; as mentioned, feel free to adjust the proportions to your liking), remove the core, and dice very finely. Mix the pear with a generous pinch of salt, freshly ground pepper, a little lemon zest, a dash or two of apple juice or a mild vinegar (pear, tomato, apple balsamic), and 1-2 tablespoons of oil (olive, nut, or poppyseed oil). Let it marinate briefly. A few finely chopped leaves of lemon verbena or lemon balm also work well in the mix. Now finely slice an aromatic, medium-sized tomato, arrange it on a plate, season with salt and olive oil, and arrange the tartar on top. If available, decorate everything with 1-2 teaspoons of poppy seeds and 1 lemon balm leaf.
Sesame also works well as a topping, but since it's more dominant, it's best served in small portions for this ethereal combination. The best way to do this is to follow a recipe from a great Instagram veteran, American cooking instructor Christopher Kimball (@cpcimball). Briefly toast the sesame seeds with a pinch of salt in a non-stick pan until golden, then roughly crush them in a mortar and pestle—a great way to elevate any vegetable dish.
- 1 ripe pear
- 1 ripe tomato
- depending on the size 1/3 to 1/2 cucumber
- Salt
- freshly ground pepper
- 1-2 tbsp olive oil (or nut oil)
- 1-2 tablespoons of mild vinegar or good apple juice
- a little organic lemon zest
- 1-2 teaspoons of poppy seeds and a few lemon balm leaves to taste
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